Discussions about water storage, filtration, purification and procurement
I was thinking about a maintenance free, inline water storage system. As water comes into your home diverting it into a food grade 55 gallon drum. Then continuing the flow into your water pipes. I am thinking the water pressure would remain constant, and as you use water the barrel would just continue to fill. At the onset of a SHTF situation you could close a ball valve so your stored water stays in the barrels instead of emptying into your plumbing. You could also have a ball valve before the water enters the barrels to keep contaminated water from entering your reserves.
I am trying to make a system where fresh potable water is always available, and does not become stagnant due to it constantly being replaced.
Would there be an issue with loss of water pressure? Im by no means a plumber?
Would having a bypass set up be a better idea? let the containers fill, and then occasionally drain them? Use the stored water for gardening and mopping the floor and refilling?
I like the idea of constantly replenished water, that you can access from the pour spouts when you loose your main supply? Im sure one of you genius preppers can help me with advice... I planned on building a pantry/storage/saferoom and thought it would be a good place to keep your initial low level disaster food and water stores, with a first aid kit, a firearm, and bail out bags. If this water reserve system works, piping it to your bunker and secondary water supply seems like a nifty idea..
I can't be of much help, but what you are showing here is similar to the 2-250 gal tanks I have for my well water. The water is pumped into the tanks and moves out of that into my pipes. There are spigots at the bottom pipe by which I can drain. I can tell you that when we lose power, we lose water pressure, so it would not flow to the toilet or faucets if the water weren't coming in from the well. I believe (hope) I can still drain the tanks without power, not that I'm too worried because I have hand pump on the well also.
I don't think your idea is bad, but I guess I would be worried about how well everything was linked, would it leak, etc.
oh good... so when your well pump is working you have normal water pressure then? When the SHTF I wont need any water in my normal plumbing, I will shut the water off coming in and going out of the tanks, and use them just for drinking and cooking.
How does the water get from the top tank into the bottom? If it is gravity fed, then the vent in the bottom tank will allow the upper to drain to empty. If there is no vent in the lower tank, then it will not fill.
The other consideration is pressure. If the tank is at floor level, naturally water will not flow uphill. The tank needs 33 feet of fall to generate 15 psi. Typical muni pressure is 40 to 60 psi.
“It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change that survives.” Charles Darwin
Iמנא ,מנא, תקל, ופרסי
It would work. However you would have to insure that the setup (including the drums) could handle the 80-100 PSI of city water pressure. Well pumps usually generate 50-60 PSI. Some RV's and Campers use this type of set up, there is usually a pressure reducer used to bring the water pressure down to 30PSI for the plastic fittings and tank in the camper.
Yes, if I have water coming in from the well pump, I have water coming into the plumbing pipes. However, as soon as the water stops flowing (the electric stops) the water stops flowing. It's not that the tanks drain and then we don't have water. We don't have water immediately.
My tanks (250 gal each) are in my basement, side by side.
Yes the top and bottom barrels would be connected. I will just need to ensure that the tanks can withstand the pressure. I think I will start with one tank and work my way up to more tanks after testing designs.
If by chance the plastic barrels don't work out you might consider used water heaters. You have an in and out on each of them and a drain on the bottom.
DAMMIT IM MAD spelled backwards is DAMMIT IM MAD
I have to agree..have seen 5 used waterheater tanks set inline. Very cool setup. always fresh water.
Vincit Qui Patitur (He who endures conquers)
“It is not the strongest or the most intelligent who will survive but those who can best manage change.” ― Charles Darwin
No, you may not quote me for any book, or use any of my posts on this topic or any other for any reason without my express written permission.
You could also add a simple in-line check valve in the intake line along with a manual shut off. This way if the incoming water stops the rest of the system remains under pressure and prevents water from back-flowing until you can close the manual valve.
Old water heaters would work great, they are already fitted with the proper connections to daisy chain them, they can withstand the necessary pressure. You just don't connect the heating element or burner.
According to FERFAL in his highly recommended book, the metal inside water heaters is a big NO-NO for drinking.
I always thought of the water heaters as emergency storage until I read that.
I think water heater tanks have a glass or polymer liner. I always thought the reason we didn't drink water hot from the tap was because hot is used less, therefore less fresh. I don't care either way, I would use them. It's a good idea.
Happiness makes up in height for what it lacks in length.
no possible contamination from a water heater .... strict regulations in that regard .... water thru a hot water heater has to be potable for drinking/cooking/cleaning purposes ....
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests